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Autumn Pumpkin Placemat (Set of Two)

⏱️ 3–4 hours each
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Autumn Pumpkin Placemat (Set of Two)
✨ FREEIntermediate
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Intermediate

For crocheters comfortable with the basics, ready to try new shaping and assembly techniques

⏱️

Single-Day Project

A satisfying project you can complete in a single afternoon or evening.

🎀

Handmade Gift

A beautiful keepsake — free forever. Read online or print at home.

About This Autumn Pumpkin Placemat (Set of Two)

These cheerful pumpkin placemats bring the whole harvest to the table. A spoked ‘pumpkin slice’ centre, a ring of open eyelets, a shaped pumpkin outline and a little crocheted stem with a curly vine — make one in orange, one in golden mustard, and you have an instant autumn set.

About this design

The centre is a flat round worked in double crochet with raised spike-stitch ‘ribs’ that divide it into pumpkin segments. An eyelet round gives the airy border, the outline is shaped with short rows to form the classic pumpkin curve, and the stem and curling tendril are made separately and sewn to the top.

Pro tips for a flawless finish

Space your spike-stitch ribs evenly — mark the segment lines before you start so the slices are symmetrical. Work the eyelet round a touch loosely so the border does not pull in. For a firm placemat that lies flat under a plate, keep a tight, even double-crochet tension on the body.

Blocking & finishing

Press each placemat under a damp cloth and let the curly vine spiral naturally — do not block the tendril flat, its spring is what makes it charming. Weave the stem ends in securely so they survive the wash.

How to style it at home

Mix orange and mustard with gingham napkins and a few real mini pumpkins for a cosy Thanksgiving table, or use a single one as a trivet-style centre under a candle cluster.

Ready to make it?

The full written pattern — materials, round-by-round instructions, abbreviations, FAQ and troubleshooting — is all right here on this page, 100% free. Grab your hook, take your time, and enjoy every stitch. When you finish, you will have an heirloom-quality piece that looks like it came from a boutique.

Autumn Pumpkin Placemat (Set of Two) — step 1

Starting rounds — magic ring and first increases

Why You'll Love This Pattern 💛

Two colours, one happy autumn set. The pumpkin shape and curly vine make them feel special, but they work up fast enough to finish a pair in a weekend.

Autumn Pumpkin Placemat (Set of Two) — shaping

Shaping with increases — building the body

Switch Things Up 🎨

Make a white 'ghost pumpkin' for Halloween, or a deep-rust one for a moody fall palette.

Autumn Pumpkin Placemat (Set of Two) — colour variations

Colour variations — personalise your make

Common Mistakes & How to Fix Them 🔧

✗
Segment ribs look crooked

The spike stitches aren't lined up. Mark the 12 rib points with stitch markers and work every spike into the same column each round.

✗
Centre bulges/domes

Double crochet increases add up fast — if it domes, you have too many stitches; recount to exactly +12 per round, or switch to the eyelet round a round earlier.

✗
Eyelet border pulls in tight

Work the ch-1 spaces loosely, or go up half a hook size for rounds 9–10 only.

✗
Vine won't curl

Work MORE stitches per chain (3–4 hdc in each) — the extra stitches force the strip to coil. Fewer stitches = a straight strip.

Autumn Pumpkin Placemat (Set of Two) — assembly

Assembly stage — pinning pieces before sewing

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Materials Needed for Autumn Pumpkin Placemat (Set of Two)

🪝Tools & Notions

01
DK cotton

Pumpkin orange OR golden mustard (body), approx 55 g each mat

02
DK cotton

Beige/tan (edge trim), approx 15 g

03
DK cotton

Green (stem + vine), small amount

04
4.0 mm crochet hook
05
Tapestry needle, stitch markers
06
Damp pressing cloth

— Gauge:

16 dc = 10 cm

— Finished Size:

~34 cm wide pumpkin

— Yarn Weight:

DK cotton

— Hook:

4.0 mm (US G/6)

— Terms:

US Crochet Terminology

— Cost:

FREE ✓

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Crochet Abbreviations

All patterns use US crochet terminology. UK crocheters: sc = UK dc · dc = UK tr
01 ch : chain
02 sc : single crochet
03 hdc : half double crochet
04 dc : double crochet
05 tr : treble crochet
06 sl st : slip stitch
07 sp(s) : space(s)
08 st(s) : stitch(es)
09 blo : back loop only
10 flo : front loop only
11 picot : ch 3, sl st in first ch
12 cl : cluster (3 dc worked together)
13 bob : bobble (5 dc worked together in one st, closed)
14 rep : repeat
15 RS : right side / WS = wrong side
16 beg : beginning
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Autumn Pumpkin Placemat (Set of Two) — Full Pattern

🎯 Intermediate ⏱ 3–4 hours each 🪝 4.0 mm (US G/6) 📐 ~34 cm wide pumpkin

🧶Pattern

💡Make two: one orange, one mustard. Centre worked in joined rounds.
ℹ️PUMPKIN-SLICE CENTRE — body colour
R1:magic ring, ch 3 (counts as dc), 11 dc in ring, join (12).
R2:ch 3, dc in same, 2 dc in each st, join (24).
R3:*2 dc in next, dc in next* around, join (36).
R4:*2 dc in next, dc in 2* around, join (48).
R5:*2 dc in next, dc in 3* around, join (60). Mark 12 evenly spaced 'rib' points.
R6:dc around; at each marked rib point work a long front-post spike stitch down into R4 to create a raised segment line (keep 60), join.
R7:*2 dc in next, dc in 4* around, join (72).
R8:dc around with spike ribs again over the previous ribs, join (72).
ℹ️EYELET RING
R9:ch 4, *skip 1, dc in next, ch 1* around, join.
R10:ch 3, dc in each st and 1 dc in each ch-1 sp, join.
ℹ️PUMPKIN SHAPING + TRIM — join Beige
R11:sc around; over the top third work 2 short rows of hdc to raise the shoulders of the pumpkin and leave a small gap at centre-top for the stem; sc a neat edge all around; fasten off.
ℹ️STEM — Green] ch 7, hdc in 2nd ch and across; fold and sl st into a short post; sew to the top gap.
ℹ️VINE — Green] ch 20, work 3 hdc in each ch across (it will coil into a tendril); sew the base beside the stem.
ℹ️Weave in ends; press under a damp cloth (leave the vine to coil).
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Assembly & Finishing Tips

💡 Weaving in ends

Use a tapestry needle to weave each tail back and forth through at least 5–6 stitches in different directions. A tiny dot of washable glue on the final stitch before trimming adds extra security for toys used by children.

💡 Sewing pieces together

Pin each piece firmly to the body before sewing. Use mattress stitch for the most invisible join — insert the needle under the same yarn bar on alternating pieces and pull firmly. Knot securely at start and end, weave both tails deep into the body.

💡 Positioning safety eyes

Take time here — eye spacing determines the character's entire personality. Closer eyes look more intense; further apart looks more friendly and playful. Pin both positions and step back before snapping the backs on permanently. Once snapped, eyes cannot be moved without damaging the fabric.

💡 Blocking

Not required for amigurumi, but lightly steam-blocking any warped pieces will relax the fibres. Hold a steam iron a few centimetres away — never let it touch the stuffing or safety eyes directly.

💡 Care instructions

Handwash in cool water with mild detergent, press gently to remove excess water, lay flat to dry. Many acrylic yarns are machine washable on a gentle cycle in a laundry bag — always check your yarn label.

⚠️ Important Notes

  • Use stitch markers at the start of every round — don't rely on memory to count.
  • Work with consistent tension throughout. Gauge swatch before starting if in doubt.
  • Fasten off leaving long tails for sewing — at least 30cm for each piece you'll need to attach.
  • Pin and check positioning of all pieces before sewing any of them permanently.

Beginner's Guide to Amigurumi 🌱

Amigurumi (Japanese: ami = knitted/crocheted + nuigurumi = stuffed toy) is the craft of making small crocheted characters. You start with a magic ring, work in continuous spiral rounds of single crochet, and shape the piece through increases and decreases — no seams, no joins, no turning.

The magic ring creates a closable centre with no hole. Wrap yarn around two fingers, insert the hook, yarn over and pull through. Work your first round into this ring, then pull the tail to close tight. Practise a few times — it becomes effortless quickly.

The invisible decrease — insert your hook through the front loop only of the first stitch, then the front loop only of the second stitch. Yarn over, pull through both loops, then yarn over again and pull through the remaining two. Working through front loops only makes the decrease blend into the fabric instead of leaving a bump.

Tension matters most. Amigurumi needs tight, firm tension so stuffing can't show through. If you can see white fiberfill peeking between your stitches, go down one hook size. The fabric should feel dense and firm — like a tightly woven canvas, not a loose net.

Autumn Pumpkin Placemat (Set of Two) — finished

The finished Autumn Pumpkin Placemat (Set of Two) — ready to gift or display

You Ask, We Answer ❓

Yes — add one or two more increase rounds (continuing +12 per round) before the eyelet ring. Keep the rib spike-stitches evenly spaced as the circle grows.

One colour is lovely too; use the beige just for the trim, or make both mats the same shade and vary only the napkins.

The shaping comes from the short hdc rows at the top in round 11. Add a row or shorten the stitches to exaggerate the shoulders if you want a rounder pumpkin.

Single thickness cotton gives light heat protection; for real trivets, work two circles and crochet them together for a double layer.

Yes — finished handmade pieces may be sold. Please credit Cozy Amigurumi; do not resell or redistribute the pattern itself.

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