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Calla Lily Bedspread

⏱️ 45–60 hours
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Calla Lily Bedspread
✨ FREEAdvanced
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Advanced

For experienced crocheters who enjoy complex shaping, fine detail, and ambitious construction

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Weekend Project

A satisfying weekend make — start Friday, finish Sunday, enjoy forever.

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Handmade Gift

A beautiful keepsake — free forever. Read online or print at home.

About This Calla Lily Bedspread

An elegant field of calla lilies. Each motif is a sculptural cream lily with a yellow spadix centre and a green base, joined into a lace net so the whole bed looks like a bank of lilies in bloom. Refined, botanical, and a real showpiece.

About this design

The lily is worked as a curved, furled petal (a shaped round shell) with a separate yellow spadix and a green calyx base sewn or worked in, then set into a lace net that joins the motifs. A scalloped edge finishes the drape.

Pro tips for a flawless finish

The lily petal gets its furl from increasing unevenly around a shell and then curving the edge with short rows — block it with a gentle curl, not flat. Make the yellow spadices in batches. Keep the net relaxed so the raised lilies don’t pucker it.

Blocking & finishing

Block each lily with the petal gently cupped (pin the edges but let the centre curl), spadix standing. Block the net flat. The botanical look depends on the lilies keeping shape.

How to style it at home

Cream + yellow + green over a neutral bed with green pillows and eucalyptus — the springtime photo. A standout on a guest bed.

Ready to make it?

The full written pattern — materials, round-by-round instructions, abbreviations, FAQ and troubleshooting — is all right here on this page, 100% free. This is an advanced make, so take it one motif at a time, block as you go, and enjoy the process. When you finish you will have an heirloom-quality piece that looks like it came from a boutique.

Calla Lily Bedspread — step 1

Starting rounds — magic ring and first increases

Why You'll Love This Pattern 💛

Nobody expects crochet calla lilies — it's a botanical statement piece that looks impossibly intricate, built from one repeatable lily.

Calla Lily Bedspread — shaping

Shaping with increases — building the body

Switch Things Up 🎨

Blush or pale yellow petals for a warmer bouquet; add more green for a leafier field.

Calla Lily Bedspread — colour variations

Colour variations — personalise your make

Common Mistakes & How to Fix Them 🔧

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Lilies lie flat and look like leaves

Petal blocked flat. Keep the top flared and the base furled around the spadix; block cupped.

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Net puckers

You pulled the node joins tight. Keep ch-3 bars relaxed so the net stays flat under the raised lilies.

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Spadix flops

Stuff it lightly with yarn ends and tack it firmly at the petal base.

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Lilies sit at different angles

Anchor every stem-tab at the same point on each net node so they all face up evenly.

Calla Lily Bedspread — assembly

Assembly stage — pinning pieces before sewing

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Materials Needed for Calla Lily Bedspread

🪝Tools & Notions

01
DK cotton

Cream/white (petals + net), approx 1000–1200 g

02
DK cotton

Yellow (spadix), approx 150 g

03
DK cotton

Green (calyx base), approx 200 g

04
3.5 mm hook, tapestry needle, blocking mats + pins

— Gauge:

one lily motif ≈ 15 cm

— Finished Size:

Queen ~ 230 x 250 cm

— Yarn Weight:

DK cotton (cream, yellow, green)

— Hook:

3.5 mm (US E/4)

— Terms:

US Crochet Terminology

— Cost:

FREE ✓

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Crochet Abbreviations

All patterns use US crochet terminology. UK crocheters: sc = UK dc · dc = UK tr
01 ch : chain
02 sc : single crochet
03 hdc : half double crochet
04 dc : double crochet
05 tr : treble crochet
06 dtr : double treble crochet
07 sl st : slip stitch
08 sp(s) : space(s)
09 st(s) : stitch(es)
10 blo : back loop only
11 flo : front loop only
12 fpdc : front post double crochet
13 bpdc : back post double crochet
14 picot : ch 3, sl st in first ch
15 cl : cluster (unfinished dc worked together, closed as one)
16 bob : bobble (5 dc in one st, closed together)
17 puff : puff stitch (yo, insert, pull up loop x3-4, close)
18 popcorn : 5 dc in one st, drop loop, re-insert in first dc, pull through
19 join-as-you-go : sl st into the matching ch-sp of the neighbouring motif while edging
20 rep : repeat
21 RS : right side / WS = wrong side
22 beg : beginning
23 rnd(s) : round(s)
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Calla Lily Bedspread — Full Pattern

🎯 Advanced ⏱ 45–60 hours 🪝 3.5 mm (US E/4) 📐 Queen ~ 230 x 250 cm

🧶Pattern

💡Make approx 120–150 lily motifs. Join into a lace net.
ℹ️SPADIX — yellow, make one per lily
💡ch 2, 6 sc in 2nd ch; work 4–5 rnds of sc even to form a small tube/cone; lightly stuff with yarn ends; fasten off with a tail.
ℹ️LILY PETAL — cream
R1:ch 20, join to ring (or work a wide shell base).
R2:ch 3, 2 dc in each ch around the lower half, building a fan/shell that will furl.
R3:dc across, adding 3–4 dc at the two 'wrap' edges so the petal curls inward at the base and flares at the top.
R4:sc around the top flared edge; along the base pull the two edges together slightly and sc to furl into a calla shape; insert the spadix and tack it at the base. Fasten off.
ℹ️GREEN BASE/CALYX
💡Join green at the furled base; work 6–8 sc to form a small collar and a short stem tab (ch 5, sc back) for anchoring into the net. Fasten off.
ℹ️LACE NET — cream, joins the lilies
💡Work a (dc, ch 3) net: each lily's green stem-tab is caught into the net at regular 'nodes' so the lilies sit face-up in rows.
💡Node round: *dc, ch 3, sl st through a lily stem-tab, ch 3* repeating across and down to build the net and attach lilies in an even grid.
💡Fill any gaps with small (sc, ch 3) picot mesh so the net reads as continuous.
ℹ️SCALLOPED EDGE
💡Rnd 1: sc around whole top, 3 sc each corner.
💡Rnd 2: *skip 2, 7 dc shell, skip 2, sc* around; fasten off. Weave ends in.
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Assembly & Finishing Tips

💡 Weaving in ends

Use a tapestry needle to weave each tail back and forth through at least 5–6 stitches in different directions. A tiny dot of washable glue on the final stitch before trimming adds extra security for toys used by children.

💡 Sewing pieces together

Pin each piece firmly to the body before sewing. Use mattress stitch for the most invisible join — insert the needle under the same yarn bar on alternating pieces and pull firmly. Knot securely at start and end, weave both tails deep into the body.

💡 Positioning safety eyes

Take time here — eye spacing determines the character's entire personality. Closer eyes look more intense; further apart looks more friendly and playful. Pin both positions and step back before snapping the backs on permanently. Once snapped, eyes cannot be moved without damaging the fabric.

💡 Blocking

Not required for amigurumi, but lightly steam-blocking any warped pieces will relax the fibres. Hold a steam iron a few centimetres away — never let it touch the stuffing or safety eyes directly.

💡 Care instructions

Handwash in cool water with mild detergent, press gently to remove excess water, lay flat to dry. Many acrylic yarns are machine washable on a gentle cycle in a laundry bag — always check your yarn label.

⚠️ Important Notes

  • Use stitch markers at the start of every round — don't rely on memory to count.
  • Work with consistent tension throughout. Gauge swatch before starting if in doubt.
  • Fasten off leaving long tails for sewing — at least 30cm for each piece you'll need to attach.
  • Pin and check positioning of all pieces before sewing any of them permanently.

Beginner's Guide to Amigurumi 🌱

Amigurumi (Japanese: ami = knitted/crocheted + nuigurumi = stuffed toy) is the craft of making small crocheted characters. You start with a magic ring, work in continuous spiral rounds of single crochet, and shape the piece through increases and decreases — no seams, no joins, no turning.

The magic ring creates a closable centre with no hole. Wrap yarn around two fingers, insert the hook, yarn over and pull through. Work your first round into this ring, then pull the tail to close tight. Practise a few times — it becomes effortless quickly.

The invisible decrease — insert your hook through the front loop only of the first stitch, then the front loop only of the second stitch. Yarn over, pull through both loops, then yarn over again and pull through the remaining two. Working through front loops only makes the decrease blend into the fabric instead of leaving a bump.

Tension matters most. Amigurumi needs tight, firm tension so stuffing can't show through. If you can see white fiberfill peeking between your stitches, go down one hook size. The fabric should feel dense and firm — like a tightly woven canvas, not a loose net.

Calla Lily Bedspread — finished

The finished Calla Lily Bedspread — ready to gift or display

You Ask, We Answer ❓

The petal is a shell that flares at the top and furls at the base around the yellow spadix — block it cupped, not flat, to keep the lily look.

They're anchored into the lace net by a small green stem-tab, so they're worked into the net rather than sewn flat — that keeps them upright.

Yes — a 2–3 lily-wide strip of the net makes a gorgeous table runner.

~40–50 lilies.

Yes, credit Cozy Amigurumi; no pattern resale/redistribution.

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