Sage Green Flower Hexagon Bedspread
Advanced
For experienced crocheters who enjoy complex shaping, fine detail, and ambitious construction
Single-Day Project
A satisfying project you can complete in a single afternoon or evening.
Handmade Gift
A beautiful keepsake — free forever. Read online or print at home.
About This Sage Green Flower Hexagon Bedspread
A whole garden of soft green blooms. Each six-petal flower is worked in two shades of green — a medium sage and a pale cream-green — then joined edge to edge so the petals touch and the bedspread reads as one continuous bed of flowers. It is a long, loving make, but every motif is small and portable, so you can carry the project anywhere.
About this design
The motif is a raised six-petal flower: a ring centre, six chain-loop petals built up with trebles and a picot tip, then a hexagon ‘frame’ round that squares the flower into a joinable shape. Motifs are made in two greens and laid out so the shades alternate softly. The final motifs are joined as you go with a slip-stitch join on the last round, and a light shell edging finishes the whole piece.
Pro tips for a flawless finish
Keep your petal tension firm so the flowers stand up proud of the background. Block each motif to exactly the same size before joining — on a bedspread this big, a 2 mm difference multiplied across 300 motifs will warp the edges. Lay out a 4×4 block on the floor first and photograph your colour placement so the two greens stay balanced across the whole bed.
Blocking & finishing
Wet-block every motif over a hexagon template (a cardboard hex cut to 12 cm point-to-point) and pin the petal tips so they open fully. Let dry completely before joining. After the whole top is joined, give it one final gentle steam-block to settle the seams flat.
How to style it at home
Layer it over a crisp white sheet so the open petals let the white peek through, add a moss-green lumbar pillow and a vase of cream roses on the nightstand, and you have the exact styled look from the photo.
Ready to make it?
The full written pattern — materials, round-by-round instructions, abbreviations, FAQ and troubleshooting — is all right here on this page, 100% free. This is an advanced make, so take it one motif at a time, block as you go, and enjoy the process. When you finish you will have an heirloom-quality piece that looks like it came from a boutique.
Starting rounds — magic ring and first increases
Why You'll Love This Pattern 💛
It looks like a meadow folded over the bed, yet every piece is a small, calming motif you can make on the sofa. Two gentle greens do all the work.
Shaping with increases — building the body
Switch Things Up 🎨
Swap to blush + ivory for a romantic version, or three shades of blue for a cottage-coastal bed.
Colour variations — personalise your make
Common Mistakes & How to Fix Them 🔧
Motifs aren't identical — block every one to the same hexagon template before joining. Uneven motif size is the #1 cause of a rippling bedspread.
Round 4 must be worked BEHIND the petals; the ch-4 bars push the petals forward. Keep petal-round tension firm.
You added an extra stitch in the shared corner. Only ONE motif lays the ch-2 corner; the others sl st into it — don't rebuild it.
Too many same-shade motifs clustered. Re-lay the block and swap a few; aim for a soft checker, not stripes or patches.
Assembly stage — pinning pieces before sewing
Materials Needed for Sage Green Flower Hexagon Bedspread
🪝Tools & Notions
Medium sage green, approx 700–850 g (varies with size)
Pale cream-green, approx 700–850 g
(12 cm point-to-point) + rustproof pins
— Gauge:
one finished flower motif ≈ 12 cm point to point
— Finished Size:
Queen ~ 230 x 250 cm (from joined motifs)
— Yarn Weight:
DK cotton (two greens)
— Hook:
3.5 mm (US E/4)
— Terms:
US Crochet Terminology
— Cost:
FREE ✓
Crochet Abbreviations
Sage Green Flower Hexagon Bedspread — Full Pattern
🧶Pattern
Assembly & Finishing Tips
💡 Weaving in ends
Use a tapestry needle to weave each tail back and forth through at least 5–6 stitches in different directions. A tiny dot of washable glue on the final stitch before trimming adds extra security for toys used by children.
💡 Sewing pieces together
Pin each piece firmly to the body before sewing. Use mattress stitch for the most invisible join — insert the needle under the same yarn bar on alternating pieces and pull firmly. Knot securely at start and end, weave both tails deep into the body.
💡 Positioning safety eyes
Take time here — eye spacing determines the character's entire personality. Closer eyes look more intense; further apart looks more friendly and playful. Pin both positions and step back before snapping the backs on permanently. Once snapped, eyes cannot be moved without damaging the fabric.
💡 Blocking
Not required for amigurumi, but lightly steam-blocking any warped pieces will relax the fibres. Hold a steam iron a few centimetres away — never let it touch the stuffing or safety eyes directly.
💡 Care instructions
Handwash in cool water with mild detergent, press gently to remove excess water, lay flat to dry. Many acrylic yarns are machine washable on a gentle cycle in a laundry bag — always check your yarn label.
⚠️ Important Notes
- Use stitch markers at the start of every round — don't rely on memory to count.
- Work with consistent tension throughout. Gauge swatch before starting if in doubt.
- Fasten off leaving long tails for sewing — at least 30cm for each piece you'll need to attach.
- Pin and check positioning of all pieces before sewing any of them permanently.
Beginner's Guide to Amigurumi 🌱
Amigurumi (Japanese: ami = knitted/crocheted + nuigurumi = stuffed toy) is the craft of making small crocheted characters. You start with a magic ring, work in continuous spiral rounds of single crochet, and shape the piece through increases and decreases — no seams, no joins, no turning.
The magic ring creates a closable centre with no hole. Wrap yarn around two fingers, insert the hook, yarn over and pull through. Work your first round into this ring, then pull the tail to close tight. Practise a few times — it becomes effortless quickly.
The invisible decrease — insert your hook through the front loop only of the first stitch, then the front loop only of the second stitch. Yarn over, pull through both loops, then yarn over again and pull through the remaining two. Working through front loops only makes the decrease blend into the fabric instead of leaving a bump.
Tension matters most. Amigurumi needs tight, firm tension so stuffing can't show through. If you can see white fiberfill peeking between your stitches, go down one hook size. The fabric should feel dense and firm — like a tightly woven canvas, not a loose net.
The finished Sage Green Flower Hexagon Bedspread — ready to gift or display
You Ask, We Answer ❓
For a queen top plan ~300 motifs in a honeycomb layout; for a throw, 80–100. Make a 4x4 test block, measure it, and divide your target size by that.
Alternate so no two same-shade motifs share a full side. Lay out and photograph a block before joining; it keeps the 'scattered garden' look even.
Yes — work all motifs with ch-2 corners and whip-stitch or mattress-stitch the sides together. Join-as-you-go is faster and flatter for a piece this size.
Go up to worsted yarn and a 4.5 mm hook for a bigger motif and fewer of them, or make a throw size. The petal/hexagon construction is identical.
Finished handmade pieces may be sold — please credit Cozy Amigurumi. Do not resell or redistribute the pattern itself.
