Yellow Chevron Keyhole Table Runner with Tassels — Free Crochet Pattern
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For experienced crocheters who enjoy complex shaping, fine detail, and ambitious construction
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About This Yellow Chevron Keyhole Table Runner with Tassels — Free Crochet Pattern
This sunshine-yellow runner is built like an arrow: every row is a V, so the chevrons stack along the length and the ends finish in sharp points with big tassels. Down the exact centre runs a column of round keyhole arches, formed by working the centre increase over a chain space in every row. The side edges are shaped into a saw-tooth outline, and the textured rows alternate solid double crochet with lacy V-stitch so light shines through.
Skill level: advanced
The runner uses a mitred construction: the centre of each row increases while the edges are shaped separately, so you must keep two kinds of shaping under control at once. It is worked in two identical halves, from each point towards the middle, then joined invisibly under the centrepiece.
How the mitred chevron works
Each row is worked from one edge to the centre, then around the centre keyhole, then out to the other edge. At the centre you work (2 dc, ch 4, 2 dc) into the previous row’s ch-4 space. That adds four stitches per row and keeps the V shape; the ch-4 spaces stack into the column of round holes. While the runner is still widening (the point section), you also increase at the edges. Once it reaches full width, the edges switch to the saw-tooth sequence, which keeps the width constant.
The saw-tooth edge
Every 4 rows form one “tooth”: three rows increase one stitch at each edge, then the fourth row starts with slip stitches over four stitches and ends four stitches early. The sudden step-in is what makes the crisp zigzag outline in the photo.
Texture rows
The pattern alternates three rows of solid double crochet with one row of V-stitches (dc, ch 1, dc in the same stitch, skipping one between). The V rows read as lacy stripes running parallel to the chevrons.
Yarn
About 400 g of DK or light worsted cotton, plus 40 g for the two tassels. A strong saturated yellow looks brilliant on white or marble counters; mustard is warmer on wood.
Tassels
Wrap the yarn 40 times around a 13 cm card, tie at the top, cut the bottom loops, and wrap the neck tightly 2 cm below the top. Sew one to each point. A smaller 8 cm tassel can also be added to the inner point if you like the look in the photo.
Blocking
Pin the keyhole column in a straight line first, then the two points, then every tooth of the saw-tooth edges. Spray and leave to dry.
For more bold, modern runners see the Sunflower Swirl Lace Table Runner and all our free crochet table runner patterns.
Starting rounds — magic ring and first increases
Why You'll Love This Pattern 💛
Bold sunshine chevrons, a striking column of keyholes and big swinging tassels – modern, fast and full of personality.
Shaping with increases — building the body
Switch Things Up 🎨
Mustard on oak for autumn, white for a modern minimalist table, or teal for a coastal kitchen.
Colour variations — personalise your make
Common Mistakes & How to Fix Them 🔧
You skipped the centre increase. Every row needs (2 dc, ch 4, 2 dc) in the keyhole.
In the saw-tooth section, the 4th row must step in by 4 sts at both ends.
Count rows in each half and mark every 4th row.
Row 1 must start in the 4th ch from hook with only 3 dc each side of the ch-4.
Wrap the neck tightly and stitch through the neck several times when attaching.
Assembly stage — pinning pieces before sewing
Materials Needed for Yellow Chevron Keyhole Table Runner with Tassels — Free Crochet Pattern
🪝Tools & Notions
(incl. tassels)
(US G/6) crochet hook
— Gauge:
16 dc and 8 rows = 10 cm
— Finished Size:
approx. 45 x 120 cm plus tassels
— Yarn Weight:
DK / light worsted cotton (sunshine yellow)
— Hook:
4.0 mm (US G/6)
— Terms:
US Crochet Terminology
— Cost:
FREE ✓
Crochet Abbreviations
Yellow Chevron Keyhole Table Runner with Tassels — Free Crochet Pattern — Full Pattern
🧶Notes
🧶Point section (half A)
🧶Saw-tooth section
🧶Half B
🧶Join
🧶Edging
🧶Tassels
Assembly & Finishing Tips
💡 Weaving in ends
Use a tapestry needle to weave each tail back and forth through at least 5–6 stitches in different directions. A tiny dot of washable glue on the final stitch before trimming adds extra security for toys used by children.
💡 Sewing pieces together
Pin each piece firmly to the body before sewing. Use mattress stitch for the most invisible join — insert the needle under the same yarn bar on alternating pieces and pull firmly. Knot securely at start and end, weave both tails deep into the body.
💡 Positioning safety eyes
Take time here — eye spacing determines the character's entire personality. Closer eyes look more intense; further apart looks more friendly and playful. Pin both positions and step back before snapping the backs on permanently. Once snapped, eyes cannot be moved without damaging the fabric.
💡 Blocking
Not required for amigurumi, but lightly steam-blocking any warped pieces will relax the fibres. Hold a steam iron a few centimetres away — never let it touch the stuffing or safety eyes directly.
💡 Care instructions
Handwash in cool water with mild detergent, press gently to remove excess water, lay flat to dry. Many acrylic yarns are machine washable on a gentle cycle in a laundry bag — always check your yarn label.
⚠️ Important Notes
- Use stitch markers at the start of every round — don't rely on memory to count.
- Work with consistent tension throughout. Gauge swatch before starting if in doubt.
- Fasten off leaving long tails for sewing — at least 30cm for each piece you'll need to attach.
- Pin and check positioning of all pieces before sewing any of them permanently.
Beginner's Guide to Amigurumi 🌱
Amigurumi (Japanese: ami = knitted/crocheted + nuigurumi = stuffed toy) is the craft of making small crocheted characters. You start with a magic ring, work in continuous spiral rounds of single crochet, and shape the piece through increases and decreases — no seams, no joins, no turning.
The magic ring creates a closable centre with no hole. Wrap yarn around two fingers, insert the hook, yarn over and pull through. Work your first round into this ring, then pull the tail to close tight. Practise a few times — it becomes effortless quickly.
The invisible decrease — insert your hook through the front loop only of the first stitch, then the front loop only of the second stitch. Yarn over, pull through both loops, then yarn over again and pull through the remaining two. Working through front loops only makes the decrease blend into the fabric instead of leaving a bump.
Tension matters most. Amigurumi needs tight, firm tension so stuffing can't show through. If you can see white fiberfill peeking between your stitches, go down one hook size. The fabric should feel dense and firm — like a tightly woven canvas, not a loose net.
The finished Yellow Chevron Keyhole Table Runner with Tassels — Free Crochet Pattern — ready to gift or display
You Ask, We Answer ❓
So both ends are identical points. A one-piece version would end in a straight edge or require reversing the mitre.
Keep the ch 4 loose and always work the keyhole into the ch-4 space, not into stitches.
Work more saw-tooth repeats in each half – each repeat adds about 5 cm to each half.
Yes – just keep the edges straight (no increases or step-ins) after the point section for a classic arrow runner.
Join from the wrong side with slip stitches through back loops; the centrepiece will also hide it.
Finished handmade pieces may be sold – please credit Cozy Amigurumi. Do not resell or redistribute the pattern itself.