Navy and Cream 3D Four-Petal Flower Granny Square Bedspread with Tassels

Deep navy four-petal flowers bloom out of thick, rope-textured cream squares on this bedspread, finished with a lacy skirt and a curtain of chunky tassels that brush the floor. Each square is sculptural: the petals sit fully raised, the cream background radiates around them in long sunburst stitches, and an outer frame of post stitches gives every square a braided border. It looks like a high-end boutique throw – and every technique is here, written for crocheters who want to push their texture skills.

About this design

The square has three layers worked in one piece. First a small cream ring (the flower’s eye). Then four navy petals worked as tall, rounded bobble-shells into that ring – they stand away from the background. The cream ground is then worked behind the petals in long spike stitches that anchor into the ring, so the cream seems to radiate from beneath the flower like sun rays. Finally, rounds of front-post and back-post stitches make the rope-like frame, and the square is squared off with a solid hdc round.

Why it is rated advanced

• You will work behind a finished layer, folding the petals forward to reach the stitches beneath.
• Long spike stitches must be pulled up to an exact, even height without distorting the ring.
• Front-post / back-post rounds create a braided texture that must lie flat – counts matter.
• The skirt is a lace border with a controlled drop, and the tassels need a consistent length across 70+ tassels.

Yarn

We used an aran-weight cotton blend (cotton/acrylic or cotton/wool). Pure cotton at this weight becomes very heavy on a full bedspread; a blend gives the same crisp texture at about two-thirds the weight. Approximate amounts for the single size: cream 3,600 g, navy 700 g, plus about 600 g extra cream for the tassels. Buy one dye lot of cream for the entire project.

Gauge and layout

Each blocked square measures 17 cm. A single bedspread top is 9 x 12 squares (153 x 204 cm) – 108 squares. For a double, use 11 x 12 (132 squares); for a queen top with a long drop, 13 x 14. The long pillow in the photo is 4 x 2 squares (8) with tassels along both short ends.

Spike stitches, cleanly

The cream ground uses a spike dc: yarn over, insert the hook into the cream ring round (two rounds below), pull up a long loop to the height of the current round, and finish as a dc. Pull each loop up to the same height – we line it up against the tip of the hook. If the loops vary, the sunburst looks messy and the square won’t sit flat.

The braided frame

Alternating 2 front-post dc and 2 back-post dc for two rounds, offset by one stitch, creates a woven, rope-like ring. Post stitches eat height and width, so we add an extra stitch at each corner in every post round to stop the square cupping.

Joining

Join squares with a flat slip-stitch seam through the back loops on the right side, in cream. This creates the narrow raised line you see between the squares in the photo. Join all horizontal seams first, then the verticals, and step over the intersections so they do not get bulky.

Lace skirt and tassels

The skirt is worked down from the edge of the top along the two long sides and the foot end: two rounds of shells-in-mesh give a light, open drop that hangs straight. Tassels are made with a 20 cm card template and attached in every other shell. Consistency matters more than anything here – cut all tassels at once, then trim them together with sharp scissors on a cutting mat with a ruler.

Blocking

Steam-block each square before joining: pin it to 17 cm, hover the iron above (never touching), let the steam penetrate and leave to cool. Lift the navy petals with your fingers while the yarn is still warm so they stand proud.

Care

Wash on a cool, gentle cycle in a large laundry bag, or hand-wash in a bath. Dry flat and give the tassels a shake and a quick comb while damp. Navy dye may bleed at first – wash it with a colour-catcher.

Ready to make it?

All instructions are right here on this page, free: the 3D square, joining, lace skirt, tassels and long pillow, with abbreviations, FAQ and troubleshooting. Make a test square, see the petals pop, and you will be hooked.

It is texture heaven – raised navy blooms, a sunburst ground and a braided frame in one square – finished with a lace skirt and swinging tassels.

Try terracotta flowers on oatmeal, emerald on ivory, or a soft dusty-rose on white for a nursery version (leave off the tassels).

Amigurumi (Japanese: ami = knitted/crocheted + nuigurumi = stuffed toy) is the craft of making small crocheted characters. You start with a magic ring, work in continuous spiral rounds of single crochet, and shape the piece through increases and decreases — no seams, no joins, no turning.

The magic ring creates a closable centre with no hole. Wrap yarn around two fingers, insert the hook, yarn over and pull through. Work your first round into this ring, then pull the tail to close tight. Practise a few times — it becomes effortless quickly.

The invisible decrease — insert your hook through the front loop only of the first stitch, then the front loop only of the second stitch. Yarn over, pull through both loops, then yarn over again and pull through the remaining two. Working through front loops only makes the decrease blend into the fabric instead of leaving a bump.

Tension matters most. Amigurumi needs tight, firm tension so stuffing can't show through. If you can see white fiberfill peeking between your stitches, go down one hook size. The fabric should feel dense and firm — like a tightly woven canvas, not a loose net.