Red Twelve-Petal Flower Lace Round Doily

Twelve solid teardrop petals radiate from a single tiny ring and open into a lace border of fans, picots and scallops – a classic heirloom table doily, made modern in pure scarlet. Laid on a glass table, the open lace casts a beautiful shadow. This is a thread-crochet project for makers who enjoy precision: long rounds, a lot of counting, and a final blocking that turns a ruffly circle into a crisp, flat flower.

About this design

The doily has two zones. The flower zone (Rnds 1–20) builds twelve petals as solid dc wedges that widen by two stitches each round, then narrow again to rounded tips, while the chain spaces between them grow longer – that is how the gaps around each petal open up. The lace zone (Rnds 21–32) is a ring of chain arches that become small pineapple-style fans, followed by a double-picot scalloped edge with 36 scallops. Because the petals are 12 and the scallops are 36, every petal lines up with exactly three scallops, which is what gives the finished doily its balanced, wheel-like look.

Thread and hook

We used size 10 mercerised cotton with a 1.75 mm steel hook, for a 55 cm doily. You will need about 150 g (roughly 1,200 m). Size 8 perle cotton with a 2.0 mm hook gives a slightly bolder 62 cm version; size 20 thread with a 1.25 mm hook gives a fine 42 cm one. Red is the hardest colour to frog cleanly – it leaves a fuzz – so check your counts at the end of every round.

Reading the petal growth

Each round tells you how many dc are in each petal and how long the chain is between petals. For example “[7 dc, ch 3] x 12” means every petal is 7 dc wide and is separated from the next by a ch-3. While the petals widen, you increase by working 2 dc in the first and last stitch of each petal. When they narrow, you work dc2tog at both ends. Place a stitch marker in the first stitch of petal 1 and keep it there for the whole flower zone.

Why the doily ruffles (and why that is OK)

During Rnds 10–16 your doily will probably ruffle slightly – the outer edge is growing faster than it lies flat. That is normal in thread lace and blocking will fix it. However, if it cups (curls upward like a bowl), your chains are too tight. Fix cupping immediately; fix ruffling with blocking.

Advanced techniques

Petal tips with dc4tog

The final petal round closes the last four stitches of each petal into one dc4tog, so the tip is rounded and not pointed. Keep all four loops on the hook the same height before you close them.

Chain-length control

In lace zones, chain spaces count as much as stitches. Check every ch-5 against a finished one – they should be identical in length. A chain that is too tight pulls the lace in; one too loose creates sag.

Fans and picot scallops

The fans are worked in two rounds: first a group of dc in an arch, then ch-1 spaces with dc in each, which opens the fan. The scalloped edge adds a picot on every alternate stitch to give that “beaded” edge.

Blocking the doily

Wash the doily in cool water, roll it in a towel to remove excess water, then pin it to a blocking board marked with a 55 cm circle divided into 12 segments. Pin each petal tip on a radius line and each scallop on the outer circle. Spray with starch and leave for 24 hours. A doily properly blocked will lie as flat as paper on the table.

Styling

Red lace on a glass table, a vase of red roses and white gypsophila – exactly as in the photo – is a beautiful Valentine’s or Christmas table. For a softer look, lay it over a cream linen cloth. It also looks stunning framed in a large round frame on a dark wall.

Ready to make it?

The whole pattern – all 32 rounds with stitch counts, abbreviations, FAQ and troubleshooting – is right here and completely free. Put on a good audiobook, keep a marker on petal one, and watch the flower open.

It is pure classic lace with a modern pop of scarlet – twelve perfect petals opening into fans and a beaded picot edge.

Try white for a bridal doily, sage green for spring, or ombré from deep wine at the centre to pink at the edge.

Amigurumi (Japanese: ami = knitted/crocheted + nuigurumi = stuffed toy) is the craft of making small crocheted characters. You start with a magic ring, work in continuous spiral rounds of single crochet, and shape the piece through increases and decreases — no seams, no joins, no turning.

The magic ring creates a closable centre with no hole. Wrap yarn around two fingers, insert the hook, yarn over and pull through. Work your first round into this ring, then pull the tail to close tight. Practise a few times — it becomes effortless quickly.

The invisible decrease — insert your hook through the front loop only of the first stitch, then the front loop only of the second stitch. Yarn over, pull through both loops, then yarn over again and pull through the remaining two. Working through front loops only makes the decrease blend into the fabric instead of leaving a bump.

Tension matters most. Amigurumi needs tight, firm tension so stuffing can't show through. If you can see white fiberfill peeking between your stitches, go down one hook size. The fabric should feel dense and firm — like a tightly woven canvas, not a loose net.